WoodCrafts & Slavic Gods and Art & SharPei Breed Manual

WoodCrafts & Slavic Gods and Art & SharPei Breed Manual
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Showing posts with label temperament. Show all posts
Showing posts with label temperament. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 30, 2015

Shar Pei Standards



Standard stipulation
FCI Nr.309/1994
(Chinese Shar-pei)
FCI Nr.309/1999
( American Shar-pei )
Origin
China (Dialack-Canton)
China (Dailack, Namhoi, Guangdong)
China
(U.S.A.)
Patronage
Hong Kong
F.C.I. (U.S.A.)
Date of issue
January 25, 1994
August 9, 1999
Valid original standard
January 25, 1994
April 14, 1999
Utilization
Hunting and watchdog.
Hunting and watch-dog.
Temperament
Active and agile. Calm, independent, loyal and affectionate to people.
“Active and agile” are the key words. Need to hunt and guard.
Calm independent, loyal, affectionate to his family.
Height
19 to 23 inch at withers
(48.3 to 58.4 cm.)
17.5 to 20 inch at withers
(44 to 51 cm.)
Weight
40 to 65 lbs. (18 to 29.5 kgs.)
Not specified.
Head
The skull is round and big at the base, but flat and broad at the forehead.
The Chinese description of the head is “Wo Lo Tau”, meaning “Calabash”shaped head.
Should not be large or heavy in proportion to body.
Rather large in proportion to body.
Tongue
Bluish-black tongue and gum preferred, pink and spotted only permissible in lighter colored dogs.
Bluish black is preferred. Pink spotted tongue permissible. Solid pink tongue highly undesirable.
Back
Very strong and straight, with very strong back bone.
This is required for an active and agile rural working and hunting dog.
Dips slightly behind withers; then it rises slightly over loin.
This is to balance the larger head.
Croup rather flat.
Tail
There are several types of tail. The most common are the curl, and double ring; this can be a big or a small curl. The tail must be firm and tightly over the hip.
Thick and round at the root, tapering to a fine point is implied here as a preferred tail.
Thick and round at the root, tapering to a fine point. May be carried high and curved, carried in tight curl or curved over or to either side of the back.
The tail is set very high, a characteristic feature of the breed.
This feature is usually disregarded in most judging in shows.
Wrinkles
In the adult dog pronounced wrinkles are only allowed over the forehead and withers.
Folds of skin on body in mature dogs highly undesirable except on withers and base of tail, which show moderate wrinkling.
¡@
Wrinkles on the forehead must be apparent but must not obstruct the eyes...The wrinkles on the forehead form a marking which resembles the Chinese Symbol for Longevity.
Wrinkles on forehead and cheeks continuing to form dewlap.
¡@
... loose skin around the throat. The loose skin should not be excessive. Excessive skin around the body in adults is most undesirable.
The loose skin under the neck should not be excessive.
¡@
Slight fold of skin on withers.
Wrinkles over skull and withers.
Coat/Hair
Short, hard, bristly and as straight as possible. Length must not be over 2.5cm  long.
Horse coat is shorter than brush coat.
Horse coat is preferred over brush coat
Short, harsh and bristly. The coat is straight and offstanding on the body, but generally flatter on the limbs.The coat may vary in length from 1cm to 2.5 cm.Brush coat preferred over horse coat

No undercoat. Never trimmed.
No undercoat. Never trimmed.
Muzzle
Length of muzzle nearly equal to the length of the skull.
Moderate in length, broad from the eyes but narrowing slightly towards the nose.
“Hippopotamus” muzzle impart to the Shar-pei a unique look.
¡@
The shape of the mouth when viewed from top should either be in the shape of a roundish roof tile commonly known as “Roof Tile Mouth” or with a wide jaw in the shape of a toad¡¦s mouth, known as “Toad Mouth”
A most distinctive feature of traditional Shar-pei. Top of muzzle is curved like a roof tile. No padded or bulge on top.
A distinctive feature of the breed. Broad from root to tip of nose with no suggestion of tapering. Lips and top of muzzle well padded. Bulge at the base of the nose permissible.
¡@
Snipy muzzle is not a fault, only less preferred over broader muzzle.
Snipy muzzle is a serious fault.
Ear
Small, thick, equilaterally triangular in shape, slightly rounded at tips. Tips pointing towards eyes and folded to the skull. Wide apart and close to skull.
Small but NOT very small. Small in proportion to head. Thickness is not emphasized here.
Small ears.
Very small, rather thick, equilaterally triangular in shape, slightly rounded at tip and set high on skull with tips pointing towards eyes...wide apart and close to skull.
¡@
Erect and standing ears are permissible but less desirable.
Pricked ears highly undesirable.
Eyes
Medium sized, almond shaped. As dark as possible. Light colored eyes are undesirable.
Dark, almond-shaped with a scowling expression. Lighter color permissible in dilute-colored dogs.
Feet
Moderate size, compact, well padded, toes well knuckled.
Hind feet may have dewclaws and not specified in standard. May remove for better management.
Moderate size, compact, not splayed. Toes well knuckled.
Hind feet free from dewclaws.
Forequarters
Pasterns slightly sloping, strong and flexible.
Pastern slightly sloping, strong and flexible.
Hindquarters
Strong and muscular. Moderately angulated.
¡@
¡@
¡@
Hocks well let down.
Muscular, strong, moderately angulated. Wrinkles on upper thighs, lower thighs, rear pasterns as well as the thickening of the skin on hocks undesirable.
Hocks well let down.
Color
Solid colors black, blue black, black with a hint of rust brown, red, and fawn. Cream is acceptable but less desirable.
Darker shading or trace mark down the back, different tone of same solid color permissible around shoulder. A distinctive color feature of this breed.

All solid colors acceptable except white. Tail and rear part of thighs frequently of a lighter color. Darker shading down the back and on the ears permissible.

Summary

FCI Nr.309/1999 standard is basically a standard for Western type Shar-pei which the breeders here in China and Hong Kong refer to as the "meat-mouth¨. On Jan. 12, 1998, AKC approved second edition of Chinese Shar-pei standard, and the FCI issued the Nr.309/1999 standard one year later. This Nr.309/1999 standard is actually quite similar to the American AKC standard.
The fact of life is that the Western type Shar-pei (meat-mouth) are already well accepted by many breeders around the world. Any attempt to replace it with a separate traditional Chinese Shar-pei standard is not practical and do no justice to the already existing type of dog. For FCI, the case of Shar-pei is intrinsically the same as the case for Akita. To solve this issue, one option is to let Nr.309/1999 remains as a standard for Western type Shar-pei and FCI Nr.309/1994 revived as the standard for the original traditional type Chinese Shar-pei.
In summary, the most distinctive differences between the traditional type (bone-mouth) and the Western type (meat-mouth) are the head, coat and tail. The difference in features between to two types is summarized below:
Features
FCI Nr.309/1994
FCI Nr.309/1999
Head
The skull is round and big at the base, but flat and broad at the forehead.
The Chinese description of the head is “Wo Lo Tau” meaning “Calabash” shaped head.
Should not be large or heavy in proportion to body.
Rather large in proportion to body.

According to the Nr.309/1999 standard, a meat-mouth requires a heavy head, rather large in proportion to body. This description has cause breeding of more and more heavier head costing the dog speed and agility.
If Shar-pei is a "hunting and watchdog¨ as the standards claim it to be, then the performance of bone-mouth is outstanding when tested side-by-side with a meat mouth. Therefore, "active and agile¨ are the keywords which have been taken out from the Nr.309/1994 standard to produce the Nr.309/1999 standard.
Utilization
Hunting and watchdog.
Hunting and watch-dog.
Temperament
Active and agile. Calm, independent, loyal and affectionate to people.
“Active and agile¨ are the key words. Need to hunt and guard.
Calm independent, loyal, affectionate to his family.
The heavier head of meat-mouth naturally cause the back to dip to balance the weight.
Back
Very strong and straight, with very strong back bone.
This is required for an active and agile rural working and hunting dog.
Dips slightly behind withers; then it rises slightly over loin.
This is to balance the larger head.
Croup rather flat.

Height 23 inch at the withers is indeed a good and reasonable size for a rural "hunting and watchdog¨. Although 23 inch is uncommon nowadays for a Shar-pei, many old memories in Hong Kong and China pointed out that they have seen larger dogs than what we commonly see today. With today¡¦s better nutrition and exercise, it is easier to obtain a larger structure. It is true that some traditional Shar-pei breeders in Hong Kong also think that 20 inch is the right size, meaning this is the statistical mean (the right size) for Shar-pei but it must not be confused with the maximum. If one set the height at maximum to be 20 inch, then in actual breeding the end result will be producing a dog on average of below 20 inch. Therefore 23 inch is a reasonable maximum limit for the dog, meaning the average height will be below this maximum limit.
Height
19 to 23 inch at withers
(48.3 to 58.4 cm.)
17.5 to 20 inch at withers
(44 to 51 cm.)
Muzzle is distinctively different between the two types. The Western type requires a ¡§Hippopotamus¡¨ look permitting a bulge at the base of the nose. Traditional type basically requires a ¡§Roof tile¡¨ look. One can imagine a roof tile which has a curved and smooth surface. Any bulge or padding or protrusion on the surface, it can not function and would not be a roof tile. A ¡§Toad Mouth¡¨ only suggests a very developed cheek like a toad but still the top of muzzle should be smooth and straight.

Muzzle
Length of muzzle nearly equal to the length of the skull.
Moderate in length, broad from the eyes but narrowing slightly towards the nose.
“Hippopotamus¨ muzzle impart to the Shar-pei a unique look.
¡@
The shape of the mouth when viewed from top should either be in the shape of a roundish roof tile commonly known as ¡§Roof Tile Mouth¡¨ or with a wide jaw in the shape of a toad¡¦s mouth, known as ¡§Toad Mouth¡¨.
A most distinctive feature of traditional Shar-pei. Top of muzzle is curved like a roof tile. No padded or bulge on top.
A distinctive feature of the breed. Broad from root to tip of nose with no suggestion of tapering. Lips and top of muzzle well padded. Bulge at the base of the nose permissible.
¡@
Snipy muzzle is not a fault, only less preferred over broader muzzle.
Snipy muzzle is a serious fault.

Coat is another distinctive feature separating the two types. It is easy to differentiate the coat between the two types, and totally different preference when judging the two types. In general terms, Shar-pei has horse coat and brush coat, and sometimes people even refer to a bear coat. They are only referring to the difference in length of the coat with horse coat being the shortest, followed by brush coat and the longest is the bear coat. A bear coat is too long to be shown in a dog show which means it is over 1 inch in length.
Coat/Hair
Short, hard, bristly and as straight as possible. Length must not be over 2.5cm  long.
Horse coat is shorter than brush coat.
Horse coat is preferred over brush coat
Short, harsh and bristly. The coat is straight and offstanding on the body, but generally flatter on the limbs.
The coat may vary in length from 1cm to 2.5 cm.
Brush coat preferred over horse coat

For a traditional type Shar-pei, the coat must be short and hard and therefore the judges should prefer the shorter horse coat over any other longer length coat. The Nr.309/1994 standard says "Length must not be over 2.5cm and this preference implies that the coat should be shorter and harder the better. Over the years, the judges in the Western world developed to prefer the brush coat over the horse coat. The horse coat was treated as if it is a fault because the Nr.309/1999 standard requires “from 1 cm to 2.5 cm” which implies that below 1 cm can be a problem. This description is inferior than the AKC standard for Shar-pei coat which says "coat lengths may range from extremely short “horse coat” up to the “brush coat¡¨ not to exceed one inch in length at the withers.¡¨ In the U.S., although both "horse coat¨ and "brush coat¨ are within the standard ”brush coat¨ is preferred without much explanation. The Nr.309/1999 went even one step further specifically excluding the "horse coat¨ (below 1 cm) from the standard. At least, the FCI can take the credit that Nr.309/1999 standard is more specific than the AKC standard.
So the coat of the Western type Shar-pei has eventually become a short hair Chow Chow. If you look at a bear coat Western Shar-pei, it is already a step short of becoming a full Chow Chow. This is not a surprise at all because Shar-pei evolved from the Tang dog and Chow Chow is also a Tang dog.
Traditional Shar-pei breeders place important emphasis on "Mou Ngan¨ meaning "coat and eye¨. Coat in Cantonese is pronounced "Mou¨ and eye is "Ngan¨. This is definitely true as the name of this breed itself implies. The name Shar-pei literally means "Sandy Skin¨ and this "Sand¨ like texture is the result of very short and stiff standing coat on the body. ¡§Ngan¡¨ or the eyes give the Shar-pei its brave, daring, and confident look.
Eyes
Medium sized, almond shaped. As dark as possible. Light colored eyes are undesirable.
Dark, almond-shaped with a scowling expression. Lighter color permissible in dilute-colored dogs.

Without a proper "Ngan¨ or eye set in the facial look, a Shar-pei can have all the correct features but still lacks a majestic look. An almond shaped eye means more specifically a triangular eye, which is an essential element in the facial expression.
The tail is another very distinctive feature which separates the traditional type from the Western type. In this case, it is unusual that Western judges tend to interpret the standard very broadly and at times close their eyes on the requirement of the tails. The key words are ¡§Thick and round at the root, tapering to a fine point¡¨. This ¡§tapering to a fine point¡¨ need to be strictly enforced if it needs to be a good Shar-pei. ¡§A fine point¡¨ means it is almost sharp and pointed and there can be no other interpretation for this.
Tail
There are several types of tail. The most common are the curl, and double ring; this can be a big or a small curl. The tail must be firm and tightly over the hip.
Thick and round at the root, tapering to a fine point is implied here as a preferred tail.
Thick and round at the root, tapering to a fine point. May be carried high and curved, carried in tight curl or curved over or to either side of the back.
The tail is set very high, a characteristic feature of the breed.
This feature is usually disregarded in most judging in shows.

This is written even in the Nr.309/1999 Western type meat-mouth Shar-pei standard but this is not strictly enforced. For the traditional type breeders here in China and Hong Kong, they refer to the different types of tail by object names such as spear, sickle, hook, and coin. Except for the coin which means a double coiled tail, all the other descriptions are sharp pointed objects. Western judges will not hesitate to select a Champion even the hair on the tail is quite long. "Tapering to a fine point¨ is not upheld at all for Western type Shar-pei, but this is of utmost importance when referring to a traditional Shar-pei.
Finally the wrinkles. The word “wrinkle¨ is the curse for Shar-pei from day one when it became known to the world. The skin happens to be loosely attached to the body but not to such extend as wrinkled and folded all over the body. Basically by appearance, the skin should be well fitted onto the body with a little fold at the withers and some decorative wrinkles on the forehead. Shar-pei originally has nothing to do with the wrinkles. The wrinkled image is mainly a Western market creation.

Wrinkles
In the adult dog pronounced wrinkles are only allowed over the forehead and withers.
Folds of skin on body in mature dogs highly undesirable except on withers and base of tail, which show moderate wrinkling.
¡@
Wrinkles on the forehead must be apparent but must not obstruct the eyes...The wrinkles on the forehead form a marking which resembles the Chinese Symbol for Longevity.
Wrinkles on forehead and cheeks continuing to form dewlap.
¡@
... loose skin around the throat. The loose skin should not be excessive. Excessive skin around the body in adults is most undesirable.
The loose skin under the neck should not be excessive.
¡@
Slight fold of skin on withers.
Wrinkles over skull and withers.


Finding A Shar-Pei Puppy

I consider the following steps when finding and selecting a Shar-Pei puppy:
Deciding if you want a Shar-Pei puppy
Try to find out as much about the breed as possible before you start looking for a new pup. This involves reading books about the breed, talking to people who own Shar-Pei and checking on the Internet. Web site at www.drjwv.com has a lot of useful information including a listing of Shar-Pei books and a listing of Shar-Pei health problems. The Shar-Pei does have some unique health problems such as Familial Shar-Pei Fever which can result in kidney failure at a young age, entropion (rolling in) of the eye lids, tight lip syndrome, cancer, etc. which you should become well-versed on before searching for a puppy - you will definitely want to ask questions concerning Shar-Pei problems of the breeder you choose. I would say that the health care expenses for a Shar-Pei are very much towards the high end of the scale in general. This doesn't mean all Shar-Pei require expensive medical care but that one should be prepared for that possibility. I would even recommend a medical savings account be set up for the puppy ahead of time. This is a savings account in which you deposit, on a regular basis, funds for potential medical care. With this in place, any unexpected medical expenses will not cause as immediate a hardship on the family finances. Issues of routine maintenance procedures such as bathing, nail trimming, and ear cleaning, puppy housebreaking and training, yard cleanup, crate training and exercise should be discussed and planned for in advance of deciding to get a puppy. Who is going to let the pup out during the day while you're at work? How do I puppy-proof the house? Does my apartment lease allow me to have a dog and are there size restrictions? Will my vet see Shar-Pei? Where can I go for puppy kindergarten classes and basic obedience training? 

Finding a Shar-Pei Breeder
I would strongly advise against purchasing a Shar-Pei from a pet shop or puppy broker. The quality of the pups usually isn't the best, the health is often questionable and you don't deal with the breeder of the pup directly. I would solicit Shar-Pei breeder recommendations from veterinarians, Shar-Pei owners, the Shar-Pei breed publication called The Barker. The breeder's location may limit the choice although a quality pup is well worth the trip. You might check out AKC shows in your area and talk with Shar-Pei breeders who are attending the show. 

Selecting the Right Shar-Pei Breeder
You are selecting a breeder with a lifelong commitment to you and your puppy in mind. Also your breeder should have a commitment to the breed and a goal of producing dogs which will better the breed. I don't think any question is too tough to ask the breeder and you should expect straight and honest answers. Also remember that the pup you are considering is the product of a breeding program (hopefully) or a line of dogs and doing some research of other dogs produced by the breeder and their lines may useful. Consider the following checklist:
Will the breeder allow you to see the pup's parents (sire and dam)? How is their health, longevity and temperament?
What are the major causes of death in the line?
Will the breeder freely discuss health issues in the breed?
Is the breeder active in the breed demonstrated by having membership in the some Shar-Pei Club, showing their dogs in obedience, conformation and/or agility, supporting breed rescue?
Will the breeder give you references to check such as veterinarians, other puppy owners, friends, etc?
Does the breeder have an information packet for your review?
Will the breeder give you a copy of the puppy contract to review? Does the contract contain a health guarantee?
Does the breeder vaccinate the pups, worm them, check stool samples, etc?

Selecting a Puppy
I am often asked what I look for in a Shar-Pei puppy. I start out by evaluating a puppy for any structural problems such as loose kneecaps, entropion (rolling in of the eyelids), bite problems, hernias, etc. If I am purchasing a "show" puppy I make sure the dog doesn't have a "bear" coat (over 1 inch in length), doesn't have a pink or spotted tongue (flowered tongue) and doesn't have "prick" or upright ears. These are disqualifications in the show ring. I don't recommend picking the most wrinkled puppy - these are more likely to have future eye and skin problems. I then evaluate the puppies according to temperament. I try to select an outgoing puppy -- not the one that stays back and watches the other pups when I approach the litter. I also don't want an overly aggressive pup or the one that barks a lot. I do like pups who don't mind being handled, will explore their surroundings and don't freak out in novel situations. Remember, a puppy's adult personality will be shaped by a combination of breed, individual genetic behavior and the socialization and training they receive during their first 4 months of life. I think Shar-Pei are very leader oriented and need to know you are the leader or they will quickly start doing things their own way. Some breeds can be left to their own devices and will still end up being compliant, manageable and good pets. Shar-Pei do not fit into this category. Early puppy training is extremely important in our breed and as an owner you must be prepared to spend a lot of time training and exercising your puppy. If you work hard and consistently for the first 6 months of the pup's life you will end up with a very loyal, dependable and well-trained companion. If you don't commit to training, don't have the time or don't have the inclination spend the time with your pup I would not recommend getting one. It would be better to wait until your schedule frees up. I would also advise you don't select your puppy at the first visit - it's amazing the changes that occur in the pups over even a few days. Impulse buying is not a good idea - if you have to wait to get a good pup, so be it!

Be Prepared For Your Puppy

Have your check list ready ahead of time:
1. Bowls for food and water
2. A crate - I advise a crate with double latches on the door.
3. Bedding
4. Food
5. Toys
6. Leash and collar
7. Nail clippers
8.  A veterinarian who is Shar-Pei friendly.
9. A training class, especially one offering puppy kindergarten classes.
10.Treats

When You Pick Up Your Puppy
Be sure you receive a signed copy of the dog's contract, the AKC papers for that puppy, copies of vaccination/veterinary records, some of the food the puppy has been on (usually 7-14 days worth), and any other information the breeder usually gives out. Be sure to have the breeder's information and their veterinarian's information also.